Audemars Piguet Royal Oak "Jumbo" Extra Thin - 18K Rose Gold - Just serviced by AP

Recently serviced by Audemars Piguet, still sealed in service box—mechanically perfect, two-year factory warranty active.

The Royal Oak "Jumbo" remains one of the most significant watch designs of the twentieth century. Gérald Genta sketched it in one night in 1972 after Audemars Piguet's managing director requested a luxury sports watch in steel. Inspired by traditional diving helmets, Genta created an octagonal bezel secured by eight visible hexagonal screws, integrated bracelet flowing seamlessly from the case, and a slim profile housing the ultra-thin Calibre 2121. The industry was scandalised. Steel sold for gold prices. Exposed screws looked industrial, not refined. The 39mm diameter was enormous for 1972. Critics called it ugly. Collectors now call it genius.

The 15202ST represents the "Jumbo" in its purest modern form—39mm diameter matching the original 5402ST, same ultra-thin 8.1mm profile, same Calibre 2121 movement, blue "Grande Tapisserie" dial replacing the original "petite tapisserie" pattern in 2012. This watch underwent recent full service at Audemars Piguet and remains sealed in its service box—unworn since servicing, movement freshly lubricated, gaskets replaced, timing regulated to factory specifications. Factory service from AP costs several thousand pounds and carries two-year warranty from service date.

Thirty-nine millimetres in brushed stainless steel with polished bevelled edges. The proportions are deliberately compact by modern standards—contemporary Royal Oak models measure 41mm. The octagonal bezel in brushed steel secured by eight white gold hexagonal screws—functional fixings holding bezel to case, aesthetic signature defining the entire design. Slim profile measuring 8.1mm thickness case only, 9.8mm including crystal—thinner than most three-hand watches, achieved through ultra-thin movement architecture. Integrated bracelet with alternating brushed and polished links creating visual rhythm. The bracelet tapers from case to clasp, each link hand-finished with seven individual surfaces requiring separate polishing and brushing operations. AP folding clasp with double safety catches. Sapphire crystal and exhibition caseback. Fifty metres water resistance—minimal by sports watch standards, consequence of ultra-thin construction leaving little margin for gasket compression.

The dial is blue with "Grande Tapisserie" pattern—oversized checkerboard guilloché introduced in 2012 replacing the finer "petite tapisserie" of earlier references. The pattern creates depth and texture whilst maintaining legibility, with each square catching light differently depending on angle. Applied white gold hour markers and Royal Oak hands with luminescent coating. Date window at three o'clock with white background—polarising detail amongst collectors who prefer symmetry, but original 5402ST also featured date. White AP logo and "Automatic" text printed above six o'clock marker.

Inside sits Calibre 2121—the movement that made the Royal Oak possible. Developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1967 as Calibre 920, later modified and finished to AP specifications, renamed 2121. Measures 2.45mm thick—extraordinarily thin for automatic movement with date complication. The thinness comes from radical architecture: rotor mounted on ball bearings around movement perimeter rather than stacked above it, allowing thickness reduction whilst maintaining winding efficiency. Thirty-six jewels. 19,800 vibrations per hour. Forty-hour power reserve. The finishing is haute horlogerie standard—Côtes de Genève striping on bridges, circular graining on rotor, bevelled edges, polished screw heads, hand-engraved 22K gold rotor visible through exhibition caseback. Every component hand-assembled, regulated, and tested.

Recent service by Audemars Piguet means complete movement disassembly, ultrasonic cleaning of components, replacement of worn parts, fresh lubrication, gasket replacement, pressure testing, timing regulation to -4/+6 seconds daily (COSC standard), and two-year factory warranty from service date. The watch returns sealed in AP service box with service papers—untouched since technicians closed the caseback. Service cost typically £2,000-3,000 depending on required parts.

Excellent condition from 2017 means the watch shows minimal wear—perhaps light hairline scratches on brushed surfaces, slight dulling on polished bevels, nothing deep or structural. The recent service restores mechanical perfection whilst preserving exterior patina proving authenticity and use. Full set includes original Audemars Piguet presentation box, outer packaging, warranty card dated 2017, instruction booklets, recent service papers, service box. Original warranty expired; new two-year warranty active from service date.

The 15202ST holds special significance amongst Royal Oak references. It's the direct descendant of Genta's 1972 original, maintaining 39mm diameter and ultra-thin profile whilst other Royal Oak models grew larger and thicker. Production numbers are limited—AP manufactures fewer "Jumbo" references than other Royal Oak variants due to 2121 movement complexity and hand-finishing requirements. The blue dial became particularly desirable after discontinuation rumours circulated in 2021 (AP subsequently updated the reference to 16202ST with modified dial printing, making 15202ST the final iteration of this specific design).

Recently serviced by Audemars Piguet, still sealed in service box—mechanically perfect, two-year factory warranty active. Fifty-two years of Royal Oak design language. Full set from 2017, excellent condition, "Jumbo" proportions, ultra-thin Calibre 2121.